LISBON

LISBON RECOMMENDATIONS WHERE TO STAY:

Sublime Lisbon - the luxurious Lisbon outpost of the Comporta gem, just off of the pleasant Parque Eduardo VII in the Avenidas Novas/Campolide part of town

The Ivens - don’t be fooled by it being a Marriott (they’re nicer in Europe!), this Graça hotel is beautiful and the bar alone is worth the stay

Memmo Principe Real - hip boutique hotel with a view across the city, and right in the heart of the best shopping district

Hotel das Amoreiras - new addition to the luxury boutique options, in one of the most tranquil squares in Lisbon

Four Seasons Hotel Ritz - bizarrely the two are combined in Lisbon, and though it could use an update, it provides the chains’ usual high class ambience

Janelas Verdes - an artsy, authentic hotel in a beautiful part of Santos

Bairro Alto Hotel - recently remodeled, always one of the best–and a very central (though very touristy) location. Also with an excellent restaurant.

1908 - small boutique option right across from Ramiro in a quickly gentrifying part of town (Intendente)

Torel Palace - Lisbon outpost of an elegant Porto hotel group, recently remodeled and with a new wing of suites. Beautiful view from the outdoor terrace, where you can also eat.

WHAT TO DO:

-Walk up through Alfama (warning: very steep!) on the way up to the Castelo São Jorge - if you go early enough you might be able to get into the castle but if the line is ridiculously long you can skip actually going in.

-Alternatively, you can hire a tuk tuk to take you all around the old neighborhoods.

-Walk down Liberdade from Marques de Pombal, then up to Principe Real, along Dom Pedro V and through the Jardim and to the overlook for a good view.

-Walk from Principe Real over the hill down into the Praça das Flores then to Sao Bento.

-Martim Moniz square - take in the action (sometimes there are festivals here on weekends) and visit the all-Asian food court and market.

-Ride the 28 tram from its origin in Campo de Ourique all the way through the city. This is super touristy but also fun. But hold on to your bag!

-Go to the Miradouro de Santa Catarina around sunset, where there will be people playing music, hanging out, drinking, etc. There’s a nice outdoor bar/cafe up there as well.

-Walk up the steep hill to the Graça miradouro for a great view of the city and a character-filled walk with some nice shops.

-Visit the Azulejos Museum and then continue east to the Beato neighborhood where you can walk around and do a bit of shopping.

-Spend an hour or so in the Jardim da Estrela, one of the loveliest parks in Lisbon - get a coffee at the Gengibre Quiosque and watch the Portuguese go by with their dogs and babies.

-Walk through the Time Out Market, which is worth a stop though better at an off-hour, as it tends to get very, very crowded. But fun to see, and you can do a little shopping at the small A Vida Portuguesa “pop up” there. You can also hang out in the little park in front of it, which has a pleasant kiosk.

-Hit the sites in Belem (with a guide would be better - or on the hop on/hop off bus).

-Can also combine the Belem sightseeing with a visit to Alcantara, and the LX Factory, a series of old warehouses that have been converted to artisan shops & restaurants.

-Hire a small boat with a driver just for yourselves (or get on one of the ones open to the public) to cruise around the harbor and the river at sunset.

-Uber across the bridge to the Costa Caparica for a beach lunch (Ibiza vibes) at one of the right-in-the-sand restaurants (see list below) and a dip in the sea (warning: freezing!).

-Sintra tour for the day - get a driver/guide to take you around to the palaces (favorite, more in-the-know one: Monserrate) and have lunch over the hill in Colares at Adraga or Bar do Fundo.

-Colares hike - park or get dropped off at Azenhas do Mar (small lot or along the road) and begin the 45+ minute hike to Praia do Magoito - one of the most scenic hikes in Europe and always very uncrowded.

-Cascais day trip - can take the train from Cais do Sodre, or an uber. Nice old town with lots of shops, a nice harbor and small beach, as well as hiking in Guincho not far beyond.

For kids

-Aquarium/Natural Science Museum/ride tram over the water - all in Parque das Nações area

-Natural Science Museum/botanical gardens in Principe Real

-Eduardo VII park/playground with zipline

-Quantum Park trampoline park (but brutal for adults!)

-Queluz Palace and grounds

WHERE TO SHOP:

Along Av. Liberdade - a lot of the luxury chains (that you can get in all big cities though!)

+351 - for more authentic Lisbon designer clothing

Embaixada - several Portuguese brands and a couple restaurants in one beautiful old building

Loja Real - a well curated mish-mash of Portuguese products on the same strip as Embaixada

Several other small shops along Dom Pedro V in Principe Real

A Vida Portuguesa - a wide selection of highly authentic Portuguese artisan products including the best textiles and ceramics. Go to the Intendente location for the largest selection. Highly recommended, especially for your gift shopping.

Garrafeira Nacional - many locations - the best selection of Portuguese wines and can help you ship.

D’Olival - beautiful all-olive oil shop on the best shopping street in the Santa Catarina area

Claus Porto - a stunning shop featuring Portugal’s most famous soap and skin care product brand

Bettina Coralo - for coffee and chocolate - a gem of a place in Principe Real. Try their hot chocolate!

Loja das Conservas - the best place to pick up the perfect Portuguese gift: tins of sardines and other fish, most with stunning art deco designs on the top of the tins.

WINING AND DINING:

A few general tips on eating out

-You need reservations at most places, especially the more formal ones. -Almost all restaurants will bring you a plate of olives and bread (or cheese or other little finger foods) and add it to the bill in the end. If you don’t want it, you can ask them to take it back or just leave it untouched. -Sunday is a bad day to eat out. Everything is closed so make sure to plan accordingly –choices can be limited. Monday is not as bad but can also be a bit tough. -Tipping - not customary among Portuguese, but it’s a nice gesture especially in the higher end places. 5-10% of the bill is good.

Timing

When dining out in Portugal, it’s important to be aware of the traditional mealtimes: “breakfast” is not really a part of the dining culture outside of the hotels, and lunch is the principal meal. Some restaurants may close earlier or later in smaller towns, and tracking down something to eat either before or after hours could become a challenge. Your best bet? Stick to the traditional times, and think about having a few snacks on hand for those in-between times when you might feel a bit peckish.

8-10 am: Have a coffee and a small pastry, either at home or in a café – or at one of the lovely quiosques in a park or well-frequented square. If out of the house, the following Portuguese words may come in handy:

• Bica or café/cafezinho - a short black (a small cup of espresso, no milk)
• Café pingado - mostly espresso with a splash of milk
• Abatanado - americano (coffee and water)
• pingado - americano with a splash of milk
• Meia de leite - equal parts espresso and milk
• Galão - more milk than espresso

12:30-3 pm: Have lunch (almoço); this is typically the biggest meal of the day. It’s always worth seeking out a good menú do día, which for a great price (usually under €20), gets you a starter, a main, and dessert and/or coffee; however this is less common here than in Spain or France – instead you may only see pratos do dia(specials of the day).

4-6 pm: Have your afternoon snack, which is called a lanche. Typical _lanches _are some sort of sweet bread or pastry. You might go for a slice of bolo de laranja (orange cake), or you might do as many, many Portuguese do and order the iconic pastel de nata (which can also be ordered as your breakfast pastry – it just goes perfectly with coffee!). It seems it’s not even possible to visit Portugal without trying one of these small egg custard tarts, ideally served warm and with cinnamon sprinkled on top. All these snacks are usually accompanied by a coffee or occasionally orange juice.

However, if you prefer beer in the afternoon, you may instead opt for a refreshing cerveja – you’ll be asked to choose the brand (Sagres or Super Bock, unless you’re lucky to be at a place that carries one of the many delicious artisanal beers), and the size:

• _Lambreta_––15 cl beer
• Imperial–20 cl beer (in Lisbon – if in Porto ask for a Fino)
• Caneca–50 cl beer
• Girafa–1 liter beer (not for the faint of heart!)

And if you’re drinking, you may want something a bit more substantial, like an empada, a pastry filled with chicken or pork meat. But you will almost always be served a small dish of Portugal’s delightful bar snack, tremoços (lupini beans in English), which should be eaten by biting a small tear in the skin with your teeth and “popping” the bean directly into your mouth, but can also be eaten with the skin on. It’s a Portuguese tradition that should not be missed, along with a specifically_ Lisboeta_ (the name for people from Lisbon) delicacy: caracóis (snails, but not the French kind, a much smaller specimen eaten off a plate with an ice cold beer during summer months).

7:30 pm and on: Have dinner (jantar), which may be a smaller meal if you’ve eaten a giant lunch (as you should!). This meal often consists of shared small plates to start and one main course each (often pork or beef; seafood if on the coast).

Types of Eateries:

Where there’s good wine, there’s good food. And with such quality wines, Portugal’s diverse and flavorful cuisine is certainly an ideal backdrop to any wine trip. You’ll find a variety of dining options that rival the variety of the country’s grapes and styles, from traditional tascas to Michelin-starred restaurants. Whether you spring for the Michelin or keep it casual, Portugal’s eclectic mix of both Atlantic and Mediterranean-style dishes won’t leave you disappointed. Dining establishments in Portugal can be broken down according to the feel of the place – here is a general guide.

The pasteleria/padaria More of a breakfast-time eatery, the pasteleria is nonetheless an important piece of Portuguese society all day long. Many afternoons you will find tables of Portuguese people enjoying a sweet treat and a coffee. Here the words fabrico próprio (made on the premises) signify quality and passion for what they do. And each region has its own specialty pastry: experience the enchantment of pastéis de Santa Clara, delicate puff pastry filled with almond cream and sprinkled with powdered sugar, or opt for a travesseiro de Sintra, a light phyllo dough crust rolled around an egg-almond paste. And don’t miss out on the divine pleasure of bola de Berlim, a Portuguese-style doughnut served plain or filled with luscious custard, jam or chocolte– and a regular treat for Portuguese children at the beach.

If the sugar rush is too much for you first thing in the morning, you can ask for a sandwich made with pão de trigo (whole wheat bread), or try a simple, not-too-sweet cake such as bolo de laranja or bolo de limão (orange or lemon cake). The croissant game is improving, especially in Lisbon with its French invasion, but the croissant de Porto, a brioche-style croissant drizzled in sugar syrup, may be too sweet. You could also order one of their savory pastries or quiches, which means you can drop in for a quick bite at meal times as well.

The cousin of the pasteleria is the padaria. Historically, bread was made by the village baker, who was often the only one in the village with an oven, but this practice is sadly dying out. In its place is the local padaria, which may be a commercial operation or an artisanal one. What they offer depends on the region.

The café

As in most European countries, the Portuguese café is a fundamental part of any neighborhood – the gathering place for that neighborhood (or in the smaller towns, for the whole town), and the place where most people begin their day. You’ll order your coffee (see above) and perhaps a pastry, and probably leave within 20 minutes. You can also hit the café in the afternoon for a caffeine jolt and a snack, and maybe a beer or whisky. And you should non-judgmentally note the older men and construction workers enjoying their mini beers (or sometimes a glass of wine!) at 9 am to get the day going…

The bar

In Portugal you can get a drink at just about any kind of establishment anywhere in the country, so there’s no special reason to go to a bar, but some bars are café-bars, where you can have snacks as well as drinks. It’s also usually possible to choose from a small bar menu of a few hot dishes and sandwiches, especially if you’re at one of the new wave of cocktail bars that have popped up around Lisbon and Porto.

The casa de chá

Chá (tea) is a major part of Portuguese culture and history, and these teahouses are scattered all over the country. Even if you’re not a tea fanatic, it’s worth a stop at one of them, if only to experience the excellent teas and the staggering range of sweets and cakes. Often there are also savory snacks for a simple lunch.

The cervejaria

These “beer houses” are basically just less expensive eateries where there is a small, seasonal menu and simple surroundings in which to eat it. Don’t confuse these with the German beer halls or the American brewhouses, where you will find a hundred different beers on tap or in bottles. You can drop into a cervejaria at any time of the day and well into the night, and simply stand at the bar nursing a beer and snacking on the types of foods that complement it: a little salty and savory such as roasted pig’s ears, pastéis de bacalhau (salt cod fishcakes), azeitonas (olives), finely sliced presunto (cured ham) and chouriço (a garlicky pork sausage flavored with red pepper paste). Some of these are more in the format of a restaurant, with sit-down tables and larger menus.

This is also where you’re most likely to find one or all of the nationally beloved Portuguese sandwiches, which can be the perfect complement to an imperial of beer, and can make a meal if you’re not too hungry.

Bifana - The reigning king of all sandwiches, the confusingly named _bifana _is actually made of deliciously fragrant thinly sliced pork served in French bread, often with a slightly spicy piri piri-type sauce.

Prego no pao - this simple yet delicious steak sandwich, has its origins in the town of Sintra but is available in almost every snack bar in the country. It consists of a soft white roll filled with thinly sliced steak fried in a pan with a lot of garlic. It is usually served with a yellow mustard, and often topped with a fried ovo (egg).

Leitão - This sandwich originated in Mealhada, a town in the Bairrada region, whose peasants used to offer their largest pigs to the landowner nobles, keeping the suckling pigs (leitão) for themselves. They roasted them in wood ovens, seasoned with garlic, bay leaves, olive oil and white pepper, cut the meat into slices and served them inside crusty country bread. Today you can still find them all over Bairrada.

Francesinha - The emblematic sandwich of Porto is definitely not for everybody. Created in the 1950’s, this is a sandwich served on a plate and consisting of thick slices of white bread with ham, sausage, cheese, and steak. The sandwich is then topped with more cheese, usually taken to the oven to melt over the sandwich, and possibly a slightly spicy sauce on top of that.

The churrasqueira - These are family-style restaurants that specialize in frango no churrasco, delicious rotisserie chicken at a super-reasonable price (often only to go). There may be other grilled foods served, but the chicken is the reason people come here. It will be simply prepared for cooking with olive oil, and paprika or the spicier Portuguese _piri piri _if you choose. And above all you need to order some batatas fritas (potato chips) to go with it!

The marisqueira - All along the coast (and even inland) you will find these specialist seafood restaurants. Ostras (oysters), caranguejo (crab), lagosta (lobster), camarões (prawns) and all the clams (including the Portuguese specialty lingueirão, (razor clams), plus a whole grilled fish by the kilo if you’re having a serious meal, can quickly add up and your final bill might surprise you. But it’s worth the splurge for the pleasure of sitting on a sunny beachfront or cliffside terrace, looking out onto the very sea where these delicacies were caught just that day. And all of this should be washed down by bottles of refreshing vinho verde from the Alvarinho grape, or a light-bodied Arinto from the Lisboa DOC.

The tasca - A tasca is an inexpensive eatery that is often run by a husband and wife team or their extended family. Here you’ll usually find fresh, seasonal produce simply cooked, and the cuts of meat and types of fish will be at the less expensive end of the spectrum. Petiscos, or the Portuguese version of Spanish tapas – shared small plates – will abound. Tascas can be tiny – just half a dozen tables, and they usually serve the recipes of their grandmothers. Grilled sardines (sardinhas), various bacalhau (dried salt cod) dishes, abundant pork, caldo verde (the ubiquitous Portuguese soup), and char-grilled chicken are some of the dishes on offer, and there is always cheese and/or desserts. All of this food is usually accompanied by a carafe of the house white or red, though there will also be a small wine list. In Lisbon especially, there has been a recent reimagining of the tasca format, with the new generation taking over to provide modern twists on the old traditional dishes as well as creative wine lists. These chefs are sometimes known as the “new kids on the block” and these small, vibrant eateries are well worth seeking out – though booking far in advance is suggested.

The taberna - A tavern, along with its cousin the tasquinha (little tavern), is where locals hang out, and the clientele is likely to be made up of loyal regulars. It can be a bit confusing because sometimes there’s not much difference between a tavern and a tasca or even a restaurant. However, look out for taverns that have one special regional dish each day and where most of the action is at lunchtime. Tables will possibly be shared, and there will be all walks of life there, squeezed in together. This is local food prepared for locals, and there won’t even be a menu – simply look at what everyone else is eating and order that.

The restaurant - Finally, all over Portugal (though mainly in the cities), you can find restaurantes, which offer varying levels of more formal service, and have various larger dishes not meant to be shared. Here is where you will encounter the more bible-like wine lists that may come leather-bound and take more time to read than the novel you’ve brought on the trip. As navigating such lists may be a bit overwhelming (unless you enjoy that sort of reading), you should leave it to the sommelier. But never allow yourself to be upsold or pressured into choosing a more expensive wine than you intended–just let the sommelier know what you are looking for and ask for recommendations from the different price ranges.

The adega - If you’re doing wine tasting in the various regions of the country, you may find you can eat at some of the wineries. In addition to selling wine produced on an estate, a winery may also have a restaurant or bar. The best adegas will use the opportunity to offer the other produce of the property (if there is any – some adegas are purely for wine making and have no public facilities) – usually it will be farm-pressed olive oil and preserved olives, jams and preserves, sausages and or Portuguese salami as well as wine from the barrel. It may only be open on weekends, or for special functions, though in recent years some have opened full fledged restaurants.

A word of encouragement for the vegetarians among us

Given the importance of beef and pork in Portuguese cuisine, one might imagine it could be rough going for visiting vegetarians. This has historically been true, with vegetarians being forced to make do with a diet of pizza, pasta and fairly sad salads or overcooked veggies. However, in recent years things have been looking up. In Lisbon and Porto, as in most large modern cities in the world, there is a strong and growing vegetarian/organic farming movement, and a plethora of good restaurants have popped up. Outside of the cities, it is definitely more challenging, but each city has at least one excellent restaurant option, especially for lunch.

International cuisines

While not quite a melting pot of cuisines, Lisbon has become much more interesting in recent years. At one point in history, Portugal was one of the world’s colonizing empires and (without getting into the complexities of that history) one legacy of this are the communities of families with origins in those former colonies within the capital city. Portugal once controlled the Azores, Madeira, Cape Verde, and São Tomé and Principe around the coast of Africa; Cochin, Goa, and Colombo on the Indian subcontinent; Macao and Nagasaki in East Asia; Mozambique and Angola in Africa; and Brazil. One can find traces of the culinary traditions of these places in many traditional Portuguese recipes, and the new generation of diners have shown a much greater interest in and appreciation for the restaurants dedicated to these cuisines. Add to this a healthy influx of people emigrating from China, Nepal and Ukraine, and suddenly you’ve got a very vibrant international dining scene – for now only in Lisbon and to a lesser degree in Porto.

Ordering like a local at the more traditional places

Once you get used to the way a Portuguese menu (emenda, carta or menú) works (and you may already be), you will find ordering simple and fun – and be extremely pleased by how delicious the food is! Remember, you can always ask your server in English if you don’t understand something on the menu. One thing to note: as in many countries outside of the US, at restaurants most guests drink bottled water. So if you are thirsty when you sit, you’ll need to first ask your server for bottled mineral water, either sem gas (still) or com gas (sparkling). Confusingly to some Americans, your server might also ask whether you’d like fresca (cool) or natural (room temperature).

Pre-meal snacks

You may find yourself very tempted by the tray of nibbles your server brings over to you to ask which you want (or, in some places, just plops down in front of you without even asking). Technically, it’s illegal for restaurants to automatically serve them to you without telling you the price, but it’s such a charming Portuguese dining tradition that you’re unlikely to take them to court! The olives are among the best in Europe, and the queijo fresco (a cross between cottage cheese and ricotta) goes perfectly with the crusty bread (pão) they’ll inevitably bring you. And sometimes there’s even a fresh octopus salad (salada de polvo) or some other kind of seafood dip or spread. All of these can be delicious but be careful, as you don’t want to ruin your appetite…

This is also the time in your meal when you will be handed a wine list (carta de vinhos) if it’s that type of place (if not just ask them to bring you a carafe of the house wine) and asked to choose a wine. Don’t be ashamed to ask your server or (if it’s a higher level restaurant) the sommelier for help, as, outside of the Douro, Portuguese wine may be completely unknown to you.

Cheeses

The Portuguese don’t have the post-meal cheese tradition of the French, but they are very proud of their local cheeses and will bring them out to offer them to you (for a price!) with the bread basket while you peruse the menu. Crafted with expertise and generations of tradition, these cheeses delight the taste buds and showcase the region’s rich dairy heritage. From creamy and mild varieties to aged and robust options, there’s a cheese for every palate. Pair these delightful cheeses with a glass of local wine for a divine experience. Depending on where you are in the country, you will have various delicious options; here are a few of our favorites:

• Indulge in the velvety smoothness of Serra da Estrela, a soft cheese made from sheep’s milk which comes from the Serra da Estrela mountain range. It is produced with the milk of Bordaleira Serra da Estrela or Churra Mondegueira sheep. This famous cheese has a thin shell on the outside that protects the creamy and buttery interior, which is to be scooped out and spooned over hunks of fresh bread.

• Savor the distinctive tang of Terrincho Velho, a semi-hard cheese with a nutty flavor that comes from the raw milk of the Churra da Terra Quente breed of sheep. It is a cured cheese originating in the north of the country.

• When in the region of Setúbal, don’t miss the local cheese Azeitão. From the town of the same name, it is produced using unpasteurised milk of ewes who roam free on the slopes of the Serra da Arrábida. It has been in production for nearly 200 years and is generally considered to be one of Portugal’s most delicious and distinctive cheeses.

• From the Azores, with its natural landscapes, green pastures and grass fed cattle, comes the delicious tangy _São Jorge _cheese. It’s usually cured for at least three months but the most sought after versions are aged for much longer. If this popular cheese doesn’t get the PDO certification seal, it is simply referred to as queijo da ilha (island cheese).

• If you’re a fan of sheep’s milk cheeses, don’t miss Queijo de Nisa from the upper Alentejo region. This is yet a raw milk cheese curdled with an infusion of thistle. After one to two months of curing, the cheese becomes semi-hard and somewhat yellowish. It is very intense with an acidic aftertaste, making it the perfect companion for a glass of strong fruity Alentejo red.

Choosing well

Portuguese menus, at least at the restaurants, are divided into sections based on courses, and these courses can usually also be shared.

The sections you’ll see on the menu will be:

Entradas (appetizers – literally, “incoming”) – confusingly named for Americans as “entrees” means main courses back at home! You may notice that this section of the menu is structured differently, as appetizers aren’t given much importance in Portuguese cuisine.

You’re more likely to see the ubiquitous sopa (soup – we could write an entire dissertation on the importance Portuguese people place on soup, especially for kids, but that’s another story), which turns out to be pureed liquid vegetables no matter what flavor it comes in. But there is one soup, considered the holy grail of Portuguese soups, and possibly one of the world’s best hangover cures: caldo verde. A slightly thicker soup, it is made with potatoes, cabbage, sausage, garlic and onion, and goes very well with thick crusty hunks of bread and a bottle of crisp Loureiro wine. Finally, there is the soothingcanja, the most famous of which is canja de galinha (chicken soup). This involves chicken, onion, sausage, salt and ham, all over a base of either rice or pasta. Just like grandma used to make!

Another category of Portuguese appetizers is the tapisco (small plate to share, like Spanish tapas). These can either be shared (or not) as starters, or combined to make a meal in themselves. Some of the most beloved tapiscos are:

• Bacalhau - you won’t get very far in this country before you’ve encountered this, the national dish, codfish. More on that later, but in the _t_tapisco_ategory we find the pastel or bolinho de bacalhau, fried dumplings with cod and potatoes, as well as the pataniscas and iscas de bacalhau, which are made with shredded and seasoned cod, and fried breaded.

• Pica pau - literally, “woodpecker.” This consists of small cuts of meat (pork, beef or a mix of both) drenched in beer-based gravy and topped with Portuguese style pickles (carrots and cauliflower) as well as a few black olives. Make sure you have some bread to soak up the sauce and wash it all down with a round or two of cold beer.

• Peixinhos da horta one of the very few vegetarian petiscos, tempura-fried green beans served with an herbed dipping sauce or two. Interestingly, the Portuguese (not the Japanese) are believed to be behind the invention and diffusion of tempura as a cooking technique.

• Gambas ao alho - This one may show up under other aliases, like gambas ao alho, gambas ao alhinho, gambas à la guilho or camarões à guilho. It doesn’t matter, just order it! You’ll be presented with a delicious sizzling cast iron dish with perfectly cooked prawns or shrimp fried in aromatic olive oil and alho (garlic). If you can handle some spice, make sure you let your server know, as many cooks will add some red chili flakes.

• Amêijoas à bulhão pato - One of the Portuguese favorite shellfish dishes, this consists of clamshells (amêijoas) cooked in a deliciously tart sauce made with white wine, lemon juice, olive oil, garlic and lots of fresh coriander. Order it at most Portuguese restaurants – even if it is with _mexilhões (_mussels) or lingueirões (razor clams) – the sauce is the star of the show here.

• Salada de polvo –If you weren’t served this as a pre-meal snack with your bread, consider ordering this as a starter; it’s perfectly prepared octopus boiled until very tender, chopped in little chunks, accompanied by tiny pieces of onions and peppers, all swimming in a tangy marinade flavored with olive oil, vinegar, garlic and fresh herbs such as cilantro and parsley. Excellent with a crisp white wine from the Lisboa or Azores docs!

• Presunto the cured sliced ham that is a delicacy all over Portugal and Spain – even more so if it comes from the bellota pata negra. This is mainly served before the main course as an appetizer or even just with the bread and snacks.

• Sapateira recheada - Found mainly at a cervejaria or seafood restaurant, this is considered quite the delicacy. The chef will mix up the meat from the head and body of the crab with mustard, mayo and other tasty things to make a dip served right from the shell. You’ll dip bread or crackers into it.

• Portuguese sausages - Like the Spanish, Portuguese people really enjoy their pork products, and have developed a similar range of sausages and cured meats. If it’s not too heavy for you, these can be ordered as a starter. Here are some of the greats:

• Chouriço - pork sausage with garlic and chili, usually not too spicy, and also the main ingredient in one of the national delicacies, freshly baked pão com chouriço (not just for kids!)

• Alheira - a national treasure, an invention of Portuguese Jews to escape the Inquisition persecution in the sixteenth century. By replacing the pork meat with chicken or other poultry, they could pretend to be eating pork and therefore not Jewish. It was wrapped in a dough of wheat bread and seasoned with olive oil, salt, garlic,and sweet or spicy paprika. Over time the recipe became popular among Christians, who added pork meat or lard.

• Farinheira - a cousin of alheira, also invented by Portuguese Jews to have something to hang in their smokehouses to feign the consumption of pork. It is made with flour_ (farinha), _which gives it its name, red capsicum paste, paprika, wine and these days also with pork fat. It can be served fried or roasted and is often served with scrambled eggs as a starter.

• Morcela - beloved by some, dreaded by others, blood sausage is nonetheless a consistent presence on most traditional Portuguese menus. Technically a meatless sausage, it is stuffed with pork blood and fat, along with flour or rice, and then spices like cloves and cumin are added. It can be served roasted, cooked or cold.

PRATOS PRINCIPAIS (the main course) – This is where you will find the meat (carne), fish (peixe) or substantial vegetable (legumes) dishes, with higher prices than the previous course. These might include porco (pork), frango (chicken), bife (beef), borrego (lamb), and mariscos (mixed shellfish). Some highly typical Portuguese main dishes not to be missed are:

-Cozido à portuguesa – Wherever you go around the country, you’ll see signs alerting you that a restaurant is making a cozido (meat stew) that day (“Há cozido à portuguesa!”). This is a carnivore’s dream dish: a slow-boiled meat plate bursting with savory porky, beefy flavor. Often included are sausages like chouriço, smoky farinheira and morcela (blood sausage); hunks of beef (and/or pork and/or chicken); pig ears and trotters; and meat-scented cabbage, potatoes, rice, and beans. The dish has origins in the Beira region of north-central Portugal, but has become somewhat of the national dish, and aptly so – it’s no-nonsense food served in a no-nonsense manner.

• Bacalhau - It may be surprising that in a meat-loving country like Portugal, a fish takes center stage, but you will quickly see that here the simple codfish reigns supreme. You won’t be able to walk down a street in Lisbon or Porto without catching a whiff (even all the way from the street!) of the pungent odor that is dried, salted codfish. The Portuguese rarely prepare it fresh, so the dried and salted version is first “reconstituted” then prepared in a variety of sauces. In fact, it is so ubiquitous, so ingrained in the minds and hearts of cooks all over the country, that they say there are around 1,000 ways to prepare it. Some of the most popular are Bacalhau à Brás (shredded and baked codfish (bound with eggs), mixed with equally small bits of potatoes); and the casserole-style Bacalhau com Natas (with a cream sauce).

• Beef dishes - Portuguese beef can be high quality, especially when it comes from the Azores islands where the cows are all grass fed, or when you’re in a higher-end restaurant. But, while they can be very tasty, the standard piece of meat you will get in a traditional Portuguese tasca or other restaurant won’t be top-quality. Nevertheless it is a fundamental part of Portuguese cuisine, and there are some things you should know about eating beef.

• Cuts of beef - the key ones to know are lombo (short loin and sirloin - from which filet mignon and other top cuts) and vazia (tenderloin, top loin, rib)

• Cooking Temperature- in many traditional beef dishes you won’t have a choice, but in finer restaurants and steakhouses, you should choose between:

• Mal Passado rare and medium rare (more toward rare)

• Medio medium, right in the middle

• Médio mais para bem passado medium well

• Bem passado well done

Typical beef dishes:

Bife à portuguesa - (sometimes called bitoque) the country’s signature steak, pan-fried in a sauce of bay leaf, garlic and white wine, and normally crowned with a beautiful fried egg (and sometimes a slice of ham). You will see this dish in almost every tasca, cafe and restaurant in the country.

• Naco a pedra - this is usually a cut of veal or lombo (sirloin), sliced thick and grilled up Benihana-style on a mini stone grill. It is usually rare when it arrives but then continues cooking right in front of your eyes.

• Pork dishes - Pork is often a better bet than beef in Portugal, given the prevalence of the Iberian Peninsula’s gourmet jewel pata negra (black hoof) pigs (especially in the Alentejo region). The finest quality pata negra is called the bellota, coming from free-range pigs that roam oak forests around the border of Portugal and Spain eating chestnuts and acorns, and whose meat is curated for 36 months. This is the Rolls Royce of ham and pork, priced at upwards of 150€/kg, making it one of the most expensive products in the market. But many people think it’s worth the price tag, and love its rich, earthy taste. There are several delicious pork dishes to look out for while in Portugal:

Secretos de porco - this “secret” piece of pork hides inside the fatty bacon, known as the bacon blanket, between the first and second layer. It is a muscle that in an adult animal weighs around 600 grams.

Carne de porco à alentejana - as the name reveals, this dish of chunks of tender pork, mixed with crispy potatoes, clams and pickles, is a favorite in the Alentejo region.

Lombo de porco - pork tenderloin is always a great order if at a good restaurant, especially if it is from pata negra pigs. This is tender and juicy meat, taken from the inner part of the pork loin.

Costeletas de porco - another common order is pork ribs, which can be very delicious with just the right amount of juicy fat along the bones. These are generally simply grilled, and then you will squeeze a bit of lemon over them and eat them with rice and vegetables or salad.

Leitão à Bairrada - with the best version coming from the Bairrada region in Central Portugal, this is one of those national treasures which is still made in exactly the same way – and it is even on the list of the seven wonders of Portuguese food. It is seasoned with salt, pepper, garlic, etc., and roasted for hours until golden brown, then served with potatoes and salad (and best washed down with a glass of the sparkling wine from the region).

• Lamb dishes - Lamb (borrego) is quite not as common as in some other European countries, but you will find it at the more gourmet restaurants. You can get some of the same cuts of lamb as you can beef and pork, and the costeletas are especially flavorful.

• Game dishes - Game (caça) is not as common in Portuguese restaurants but there is a culture of hunting on the vast expanses of land owned by the country’s wealthy landowners. At the finer restaurants, you will see the occasional javali (wild boar), veado (venison) or perdiz (partridge).

• Arroz de pato - a very common, delicious casserole with rice, this dish has a long culinary history and originated in the North of Portugal. The rice is prepared with garlic, wine and bay leaf, and filled with tender pieces of duck meat as well as slices of chouriço sausage, then garnished with orange slices. Kids love it too!

• Seafood dishes - What kind of seafood (and whether there is seafood at all) is highly dependent on where you are, but if you are in a seafood-focused restaurant, you should look to order the whole grilled fish dourada (sea bream) and robalo (sea bass) are good choices), choco frito (breaded and fried cuttlefish that is a specialty of the Setúbal region), or delicious stews to share among 2 or 3 people, like arroz de mariscos, arroz de polvo or cataplana de mariscos. Carabineiros (deliciously sweet scarlet prawns) and percebes (goose barnacles, only in season for part of the year) are much harder to find but also interesting delicacies to try.

Cabidela - This is one of the oldest and most classic dishes of Portuguese cuisine, with records of it appearing way back in the 16th century. But cabidela rice is also one of the country’s most surprising and bizarre dishes. Hailing from the Minho region, it is made with rice and chicken meat (sounds fine so far). But it incorporates the blood drained from the chicken, mixed with vinegar so as to “sterilize” it, added at the end of cooking. It’s an authentic and flavorful experience for those who dare to try it.

Sardinhas grelhadas - The ubiquitous emblem of Lisbon (though only really in season in the summer) grilled sardines with the heads still on are a particular taste. Beginning in late May you’ll see pieces of paper taped to the windows of tascas and restaurants around town, saying “há sardinhas”. At these places you can usually make a satisfying meal out of five or six grilled sardines with potato and salad, or you can have a sandwich by putting them into a nice crusty roll (this happens the most during the famous June festas).

Feijoada - a very popular stew made with pork and beans, traditionally made with white beans and red beans. Some of the regional variations, like feijoada à Transmontana and feijoada de mariscos, are also interesting to try when you are in those regions.

ACOMPANHAMENTOS (sides) - almost every beef and pork fish is served with arroz (rice – plain white but nonetheless tasty when you mix it in with the sauce and meat) or batatas (potatoes, either boiled or fried), and legumes (vegetables, usually cooked to high heaven) or a salada mista (the Portuguese mixed salad consists of regular lettuce with tomatoes, raw onions and sometimes one or two other vegetables). But you can sub in or out any of these sides, and there may also be some more gourmand preparations of grilled vegetables and potatoes on the menu. And another highly typical side is açorda, a sort of Portuguese polenta that can be served with or under shrimp or meat – not to be confused with açorda à alentejana, which is actually a soup with bread and a fried egg in it.

SOBREMESAS (desserts) – While not necessarily known for its desserts, Portugal does have quite a few delicious offerings. Drawing inspiration from the rich traditions of Portuguese sweets, local desserts can be a heavenly symphony of flavors, textures and craftsmanship when done well.

• Ananas- pineapple, unlike any you’ve ever had – cut into juicy rounds and with an unparalleled sweetness. There are sometimes other fruits on the dessert menu, most commonly melão (delicious ripe honeydew melon).

• Arroz doce - you know it as rice pudding, and we bet you didn’t know that the first rice pudding was made in Portugal. This version is made with rice, milk, sugar, eggs, cinnamon, and salt, and is custard-like and soft on the interior.

• Leite creme - similar to French crème brulée, made with sugar, egg yolks and cinnamon and slightly crispy from the caramelized sugar on the top, but it’s boiled.

• Mousse de chocolate- it may sound boring but trust us, it’s anything but - Portuguese chocolate mousse generally comes from high quality dark chocolate and is served in a dollop on a stone plate, or in a sundae glass.

After all this eating wraps up, you will then be offered coffee, and possibly some sort of digestif or after dinner drink.

Note that when the bill comes, tax (VAT) is included, but not service. While not expected in Portugal, a small tip (1-2 euros per person in a _tasca _or up to 10% in more formal restaurants) is always much appreciated.

WHERE TO EAT:

Restaurants:

Traditional Portuguese

Taberna da Rua das Flores - one of the true gems of Lisbon, but must get there by 6:30 or forget about it—no reservations and teeny. Order wine or a drink and stand outside while you wait.

Cacué- in the Avenidas Novas area (Picoas), a bit off the beaten path, but serving very fresh versions of the Portuguese classics in an intimate atmosphere.

Cervejaria Ramiro - the legend - super touristy but justifiably so and delicious - but another one where you need to get there by 7 to stand in line or it’s ridiculous – or go early for lunch.The only non-seafood item on the menu is the beef sandwich, which is good enough to play that role!

Solar dos Presuntos - great traditional food in a lively modern atmosphere, beloved by movie stars and footballers. Let the servers guide you when ordering.

Ze da Mouraria- (the original one in Mouraria) - especially Tuesday lunch when they serve the ribs. One of the most traditional places in the city, but it’s become known by tourists.

A Valenciana - the best rotisserie chicken in a very old school atmosphere with bright lights and busloads of tourists. But worth it! Try to snag a table outside.

Cafe São Bento - a Prohibition-era feeling steakhouse with fabulous old pro waiters dressed in formal waiter wear; ring the bell to get in. Must book in advance.

O Piteu da Graça - seafood-focused, highly traditional and with a welcoming staff, in a nice old building in the bustling part of Graça.

Gambrinus - a true gem right in the heart of the tourist zone (Rossio). Step inside the doors and into another era. You could get a table but the real attraction is the carved oak bar–try to get a seat there and let the waiters masterfully perform the lost art of traditional service.

Ultimo Porto - down under the bridge on the docks, one of the few remaining places you can get charcoal-grilled fish, served the same way for over 50 years.

Ponto Final - across the river under the bridge on the other side (you take the ferry from Cais do Sodre then walk along the water to get there), one of the greatest views in all of Lisbon (from the other side), and with highly traditional seafood and meat dishes.

“New kids on the block” tascas:

There’s a nice new movement of young chefs who take the traditional “tasca” model and use the recipes of their grandmothers to cook fresh, locally sourced food paired with great natural and organic wines.

Taberna Sal Grosso - the originator of the movement; delicious small plates and a small but well selected wine list

Taberna do Calhau - inventive chef-driven tasca with a ton of personality and creativity, always full

Tasca Baldracca - one of the original Sal Grosso founders, now running this simple but lively spot. A good place to try some true Portuguese delicacies. Small but good wine list.

O Velho Eurico - must book way in advance and even then it’s impossible to get in. Is it worth it? I’m not sure! But the food is delicious and it’s in a fun location.

Agua pela Barba - nice atmosphere, with creative takes on Portuguese specialties. Only two seatings a night and they usually kick you out at 9:30 if you’re in the first one (7:30). Cash only.

Fumeiro de Santa Catarina - run by two great women, one of the first of this kind, with delicious small plates made for sharing in large groups and a small but thoughtful wine list.

Pigmeu - the whole pig - don’t go if you don’t like pork! On a nice side street in Campo de Ourique, run by a very passionate chef.

Tasca Pete - one of the newest additions, from a chef who lived in London for a while - delicious small plates; very tough to get a booking but try way in advance on Instagram, or if you’re only 2 people you can try to walk in.

Tati - this is Act II (in a new location - Penha da França) of this wonderful tasca/wine bar. The small plates are always of the freshest, most local ingredients, and the wine list is beautifully curated, one of the most organic and natural in the city.

Modern Portuguese cuisine:

Cantinho do Avillez - one of several of the celebrity chef’s outposts in Lisbon, must book in advance, always solid food (but created mainly for tourists). If you’re looking for a bit more casual, try Bairro do Avillez instead).

O Frade - delicious seafood and meat, in Belem and with a beautiful half-moon bar where you can (and should!) eat.

Boi Cavalo - tiny gem located in a former butcher shop in Alfama, and serving a fresh, seasonal menu full of plays on traditional recipes, and all paired with full bodied wines from their more traditional list.

A Nossa Casa - on a loud annoying street in Bairro Alto but wonderful farm-to-table food, run by a passionate young couple - must book in advance

Senhor Uva - vegetarian cuisine in an intimate atmosphere (and now with a second space across the street), and one of the city’s better wine lists - the owner really knows about wine.

Prado - one of the city’s best new(ish) higher end restaurants, with only Portuguese products on the menu, and also one of its best wine lists, with all the modern Portuguese greats and a very knowledgeable sommelier.

Tricky’s - modern cooking incorporating traditional Portuguese recipes and ingredients, run by a very passionate and dedicated team, on Rua de São Paulo.

Atalho Real - excellent meat done in a traditional way, and with a great outdoor terrace–book for the terrace. Traditional Portuguese wine list.

Trinca - hidden on a side street in the gentrifying neighborhood of Anjos, serving modern small plates heavily inspired by South American, Japanese and Portuguese cuisines.

SEM - Creatively prepared tasting menu and recently-Michelin-awarded dishes are created specifically to combat food waste, and ingredients are chosen according to seasonality, and to support local farmers. Fresh inventive cocktails and a nice natural-heavy wine list.

More formal, high end dining:

100 Maneiras - Chef Ljubomir Stanisic very creatively runs this Michelin-starred bistro and restaurant, which also has one of the best cocktail menus in the city.

Canalha - opened in late 2023 and is already one of the hardest reservations to get. Chef João Rodrigues chooses only the finest ingredients from around the world for his lovingly prepared dishes.

Belcanto - for a special occasion, first restaurant to earn 2 Michelin stars, and part of the mini-empire of Portugal’s only true celebrity chef, Jose Avillez. Interiors are chic and grand, without feeling stuffy, the service is impeccable; you choose from three tasting menus, or a la carte (but do one of the tasting menus!).

Alma - Henrique Sá Pessoa’s Michelin-starred gastronomic temple, serving a creative multi-course tasting menu accompanied by a very deep wine list.

Loco - in Estrela/Lapa just above the Basilica, Michelin-starred. Creative 16-course tasting menu that the helpful staff takes their time and explains. They have a thoughtful, all-Portuguese wine list.

Sala de Corte - in the Cais de Sodre area, considered Lisbon’s best steakhouse, with various cuts and accompaniments, including some fabulous aged beef. They have a very high end wine list designed for the business lunch crowd.

Pizza

Lero Lero - just pizza and fabulous natural wine (the owner is also a wine importer), but the crust is possibly the best in town.

In Bocca al Lupo - delicious very thin-crust pizza in a hidden passageway off Praca das Flores Everything’s organic, and they have gluten free crust and are kid-friendly.

Lupita - a newer addition to the scene but already the most popular with the hipsters - their sourdough crust is to die for.

Zero Zero - for outdoor terrace - good pizzas, salads and pastas and very kid friendly.

Memoria - nice pizzas but also other Italian food, very pleasant indoor/outdoor terrace, on the sweet little park in Campo de Ourique.

Food from other countries:

Baan - by far the best Thai in Lisbon; strange location behind El Corte Ingles (shopping mall) but the owner really knows how to run a restaurant.

Casa Nepalesa - the atmosphere (mountain ski chalet) and the food are fabulous; best to book in advance.

Gunpowder Lisboa - Lisbon outpost of the London classic, but incorporating Portuguese ingredients and dishes into the Indian menu. Also has an excellent, locally dominated wine list.

Cafeh Tehran - very nice Persian cuisine in Praca das Flores.

Honda’s Ramen - but there are many ramen joints around the same level - take your pick!

Potzalia - authentic Mexican food in Lisbon - inside a bizarre shopping center in a weird location but a second one opened up in Estefania and is more lively.

TreeStory - delicious Georgian food and wines with a lovely terrace for when it’s warm.

A Parte - Brazilian steak and seafood with a really lovely atmosphere in an old mansion.

Go Juu - great sushi; non-members can only get in on certain nights, call to reserve.

Aron Sushi - really fresh sushi, great lunch menu deal.

Hikidashi - another great sushi lunch menu, in Campo de Ourique.

Jesus é Goês - among the best Goan food in town, in a very lively atmosphere and with a small but creative wine list.

Mezze - a fabulous concept inside the Arroios market), with recently arrived Syrian refugees serving fresh and delicious Middle Eastern food.

Associação Caboverdeana - on the top floor of the corporate building where the Association is housed, in Rato, is this joyful restaurant that serves the traditional food of this former Portuguese colony, during “dance lunches” with live music and actual dancing–quite an experience.

Cantinho do Aziz - the pioneer of Mozambican food in the city (since the 1980s), and still serving “Indo-African” specialties on a lovely shaded terrace in Mouraria.

Boa Bao - fresh (and spicy if you want!) Asian street food with a nice terrace out front and in the back; in the heart of Chiado.

Chuan Yue - the best Szichuan in Lisbon, but in a zero atmosphere strip mall place in Roma.

The Old House - same owners as Chuan Yue, but a more lively ambience and in Parque das Nações.

Cafes/pastries/other:

Pasteis de Belem - the original, and simply the best, pastel de nata, and worth the trip even if you’re not otherwise going to Belem. Line up and order, then eat them warm with a bit of cinnamon sprinkled on top.

Manteigaria - a very close runner up to Pasteis de Belem, with their own recipe and style, but still fabulous! Various locations.

8 Marvila - innovative modern food court in the hipster neighborhood Beato, makes for a great night out.

Dois Corvos - the brewery/restaurant serves some great food along with their own craft beers in the Beato neighborhood.

Time Out Market - an impressive array of local food offerings - if you can brave the crowds!

Manteigaria Silva - a great place to pick up picnic supplies like local cheeses and the sought after delicacy “pata negra” (from the black Iberian pig).

Quiosques de Lisboa:

The old school kiosks dotted around Lisbon are a blast-from-the-past way to soak up true Portuguese culture. The city’s first kiosk opened in Rossio Square in 1869, but over the years most of them closed and were left abandoned until the recent trend of reviving the tradition. Older kiosks were restored, and new ones were built in the city’s squares and gardens. There are currently dozens of kiosks for all tastes and occasions, and each one has its own personality. Score a table and order (at the window) a beer on a sunny afternoon. Here are some favorites…

Quiosque de São Paulo - Cais do Sodré area; excellent food prepared by the chef from Cafe da Rua das Flores.

Gengibre da Estrela - inside Jardim da Estrela; the best people watching.

Ribeira das Naus - Cais do Sodré; great little chairs to sit and watch the ships go by.

Quiosque Popular - inside the Jardim da Cerca da Graça; wonderful views especially at sunset.

Clara Clara - inside Jardim Botto Machado, a small park by the National Pantheon. Perfect for a post-flea market beer.

Quiosque “O Melhor Bolo de Chocolate do Mundo” - one of several really pleasant kiosks lining the pedestrian sidewalks of Liberdade; always shady.

Praça das Flores - inside one of the most tranquil praças in Lisbon - and you can get wine at Black Sheep and sit out on the benches.

Quiosque das Amoreiras - at the foot of the old Roman aqueduct, and with an excellent music selection at happy hour.

Hamburgueria da Parada - serving organic burgers and inside Campo de Ourique’s main meeting place.

Wine and cocktail bars:

Wine bars

Vino Vero - a must! a great spot in a tiny passageway, perfect to sit outside and eat Italian snacks/drink great wines, watch the people go by.

Black Sheep - a fabulous tiny little wine bar which began with all Portuguese wine (though they have expanded now)–ask for a bottle and your glasses and go sit in the beautiful park/square (Praça das Flores) right there.

Bom Bom Bom - in the heart of the action at the top of the Graça hill, focusing on small plates and organic/natural wines.

Cerveteca - only a couple wines, but the best selection of craft beers and a nice outdoor terrace, in a very authentic Portuguese neighborhood.

Comida Independente - wine bar/shop and charcuterie down in the Cais do Sodre area, run by a passionate and knowledgeable couple who focus on all Portuguese products.

Cocktail bars:

Foxtrot - a beautiful old traditional cocktail bar with some of the best drinks in Lisbon. Book a table in the front room near the bar.

Pavilhao Chines - character-filled landmark with old pro waiters and crazy memorabilia all over - an experience.

Red Frog - speakeasy with creative cocktails and artisanal beer and wine.

Ice cream:

Nannarella - the best ice cream in Portugal (and possibly in Spain too!), and a must - take it up to Praça das Flores or down to the park behind the Parliament and eat it there.

Davvero - started by an ex-Nannarella person and a very close second.

Conchanata - nothing’s changed here since it opened in 1947, run by an Italian family and with very traditional flavors, including the house specialty, the “conchanata”, two scoops of strawberries and cream with a strawberry sauce on top.

Beach lunches:

Costa da Caparica (across the bridge):

• Praia da Princesa
• Irmão
• Piscina
• Retiro do Pescador
• Casa Reia

Colares (over the hill from Sintra):

• Nortada - not right on the beach but up the road overlooking the sea, and serving some of the area’s freshest seafood and other Portuguese specialties.

• Bar do Fundo - the place to go to sit right on the beach in Praia Grande, with the crashing waves as your backdrop.

• Azenhas do Mar - set against the cliffs in one of Portugal’s most stunning villages, with a fabulous view out to sea and even its own natural ocean pool. Food is expensive but excellent, and the wine list is one of the best in the area.

• Restaurante Adraga - one of the most impressive beaches in the area, with a restaurant serving whole grilled fish and perfectly prepared meats. Must book in advance.

• Aldeia da Praia - a lovely little community spot with several great food trucks, a craft beer bar and a delicious pizza place

Cascais area:

• Bar de Guincho (further afield, right on the beach)
• Taberna Clandestina (Portuguese-Italian)
• 5 Sentidos (modern Portuguese)
• Cantinho do Avillez (from celebrity chef José Avillez)
• Jardim dos Frangos (local spot for rotisserie chicken)
• Souldough Pizza
• Malacopa(Mexican)
• Chutnify(modern Indian)
• Milkees/Gleba