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elle /
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2024-07-31 20:32:42

elle on Nostr: After my back and pelvis were fractured in January, I knew I wouldn't be surfing ...

After my back and pelvis were fractured in January, I knew I wouldn't be surfing again. I was, genuinely, fine with it. Until right now.

(Surfer: Gabriel Medina, Photo: Getty Images/Jerome Brouillet)

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