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paulinthejungle / paul keating
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2024-10-25 22:28:13

paulinthejungle on Nostr: Some proof of sending. Still searching for “the one”. Stoked either way and ...

Some proof of sending.

Still searching for “the one”. Stoked either way and slowly learning this wave - Playa Zicatela.

It’s called “MexPipe” because it resembles the famous break called “Pipeline” in Hawaii.

It’s my 4th time here and I’m slowly learning the ropes. The 8’0 feels like magic.. also leaned that surfing without a leash is much safer.

I got the closest I’ve ever come to dying here at this wave a few years back. I realize now it was because the board kept dragging me under the water and would also drag me back out under water…

I saw others without a leash and just thought they were crazy, but now I wouldn’t go back out there with a leash unless it was small.

Another swell on the way to get a few more cracks at “the one”.

Check out this little doc to learn more about the wave and town

https://youtu.be/0El_GfG4f4E?si=us-ShuWCvEN0Vq2M

#mexico

Chasing rhinos tomorrow. Never surfed a gun like this.

#mexico








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