belikewater on Nostr: “Surfing is like music. It's infinite. You will never assess it or encompass it ...

“Surfing is like music. It's infinite. You will never assess it or encompass it because the movement of water and waveform is so infinite and so nuanced and so beautiful and so changeable that, just like a musician, all you're trying to do is get yourself inside the pocket of that flow and have the ephemeral moment of getting in sync with that energy. And it doesn't matter how many times you do it; there's no guarantee you're going to get it right the next time.” -Edward Norton x Rick Rubin