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mattaroo
npub1wwu…7lcn
2024-07-12 14:01:35
in reply to nevent1q…5gh6

mattaroo on Nostr: I surf and once lived on the Big Island HI. I caught at wave at a break called 69's ...

I surf and once lived on the Big Island HI. I caught at wave at a break called 69's with nobody out, double overhead, low tide on the reef, no wind glassy conditions and it was one of the best waves I ever surfed, getting barreled and then pulling of one of my best turns of the top I have ever done. Nobody there to see it! That's where I go :-)
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npub1wwushhg9g3lewt49klu5wlqxdhraljkdexyjz2mdhjx8nuk6aepq577lcn